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Biological Rose
Culture PO Box 1555, Ventura, CA 93002 800-248-2847 *
805-643-5407 * fax 805-643-6267 questions
bugnet@rinconvitova.com orders
orderdesk@rinconvitova.com web
www.rinconvitova.com |
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We would like to present some
ideas for rose culture based on our understanding of the biology and ecology of
roses. To biologically prevent and manage pests we start in the root zone.
Roses historically are forest
plants and benefit from an association with endomycorrhizal fungi. They thrive
in a soil that is dominated by a diversity of soil fungi (as opposed to soil
bacteria). Woody mulch on the soil around the plant favors soil fungi over soil
bacteria. Water washes through the mulch carrying humic materials into the
soil, which helps feed the fungi. Avoid incorporating raw organic matter as it
stimulates bacterial growth, which is not best for roses.
Healthy rose bushes resist pests
and diseases and the planting bed makes a big difference. Prepare beds by
double (or triple) digging and incorporate mature compost with a priority to
increase organic matter in the second spade depth layer of soil. Inoculate the
roots of new plants with endomycorrhizal fungi to get transplanted bushes off
to a good start. Space plants to provide good air flow between plants, away
from tree roots (or install a root barrier).
For established bushes mulch the
inoculant vertically into the root zone. Use a spading fork to make small holes
in the soil and drop a pinch of inoculant into each hole.
Foliar feed with “compost tea” at
regular intervals through the growing season. This feeds both the leaves and
the soil fungi. The tea runs off after colonizing the leaf surface with
beneficial microbes that are antagonistic to plant diseases. Pests like aphids
and whitefly are also decreased by compost tea sprays.
Habitat plants will draw
beneficial insects to help control insect pests. Alyssum, clover, yarrow,
creeping oregano and members of the carrot family (dill, fennel, coriander,
bishop’s weed) can be grown near roses. These plants attract a wide range of
parasitic wasps and flies that control aphid, worms, whitefly, leafhoppers and
many other pests. Garlic, onions and chives are good companions repelling
aphids. Gopher Stopper sour clover repels gophers and its flowers attract bees.
Honeydew seeking ants farm
aphids, whitefly, mealybug, and lacebug (honeydew producing pests) just as we
farm dairy cattle. They carry them on to plants, protect them from beneficial
insects that try to eat them, and harvest honeydew from them. Honeydew is like
candy to the ants, only more complete nutritionally. To control any of these
pests (and often spidermites) you need to manage the ants by disrupting their
nests and baiting the colony. We offer materials and suggestions for managing
ants.
Lacewing and ladybugs are
attracted to this honeydew. You can use our Insect Food to draw them to
suppress pests on your roses. We offer this Insect Food product that can be
mixed with water and sprayed to attract them before pests appear in the spring.
Enhance the habitat around your
rose garden for birds, frogs and toads to feed on insect pests year round.
These creatures appreciate ponds and fountains.
If rose slugs and rose worms,
that escape the naturally occurring biological controls, require different
biological treatments for worms (caterpillars) and wasps. Like cutworms in
turf, leafroller and budworm caterpillars can be sprayed with Condor or Troy
Bt., Bristly roseslugs and coiled roseslugs are primitive wasps called sawflies
(not caterpillars) so they are not affected by Bt. A more effective treatment
for these sawflies is spraying and drenching these wasp larvae with Steinernema carpocapse beneficial
parasitic nematodes, the same ones that attack the larva of fleas in turf and
soil.
When you follow these basic
guidelines you can minimize or control the insect pests and diseases on roses
and promote healthy plants. For more on particular pest control solutions, see
the pest index on our website and call us.